Saturday, July 30, 2011

Sometimes a hike is just a hike...

...and sometimes you get sucked into a bog.




Friday, July 15, 2011

Custom Leather Sheath for Mora 612 Carbon Steel Knife



I've slowly been introducing my girlfriend to the types of knives typically used outdoors for camp tasks and we settled on the Mora 612 Carbon Steel knife design as her first beginner knife.

Mora of Sweden Knives 612 Carbon Steel FOS Morakniv Classic 612 Fixed Blade Knife with Red Wood Handle

I chose this knife for a number of reasons:
  • classic, time tested design for woodcraft
  • comfortable in the hand
  • carbon steel blade
  • the Scandinavian grind is a great beginner's edge design
  • cost (can't beat the cost-value ratio of a Mora)
  • the presence of a finger guard (a major concern for her, since she's still developing proper technique)

One thing against Mora knives in general though is that the sheaths they come with just plain suck.  For the price you pay you can't really complain, but then again there is nothing forcing you to keep it.  Wanting to turn it into a truly functional belt sheath, I opted to make my own out of leather and use the stock plastic sheath inside the leather as a liner to make it even more secure.  I felt using the stock sheath was the way to go since it actually locks the finger guard in place when the knife is sheathed, making for a very secure fit.  Rather than having to come up with my own mechanism, I choose to use what already worked and adapt it to my needs

The first step was removing the loop from the plastic sheath.  This isn't so much a belt loop as it is a button clip as it's meant to snap over the buttons on the overalls typically worn in Sweden (where the knife is made).  It's got to go.



the next step (which probably should have been the first) was sketching out a basic design for the sheath.  This served the purpose of solidifying my ideas of what I wanted from the sheath, and giving me a rough template to follow while working the leather.


Next comes the preparation of the plastic sheath which will need to be bonded to the leather with an adhesive to function as the liner. I roughed it up using 60 grit sandpaper which created microscopic groves for the epoxy to fill and bond to.


I used a simple two part epoxy which I mixed in small batches as I needed. As I wanted the leather to form fit the liner, I used a number of clip to wrap the leather around it. Simple binder clips do the trick, as they're cheap, secure and what I happen to have on hand.

Clamping the back of the sheath to the liner, the welts, and the firesteel loop that will be needed for the next step


Close up view of how I clamped the leather to the slit in the side of the plastic liner.  
A scrap piece of leather in between the clamp and the sheath helps to avoid marking the sheath.


With the liner attached to the leather backing I then trimmed and glued the welts and firesteel loop to it.

Once again, a piece of scrap leather acts as a protective buffer for the sheath in areas I don't plan on trimming away excess

Once the pieces were bonded I trimmed away the excess and drilled out holes for the stitching. The way I do this is to take a ruler and push pin, and begin marking out 0.25" intervals all the way around the sheath. I then drill out the holes using a drill press, using (if I recall correctly) a 5/32" drill bit. Once that is complete it is simply a matter of running the artificial sinew through using a saddle stitch with two needles.

All trimmed up and stitched

At this point I would normally wax the sheath and finish the project, but I tried something new this time around. I was never happy with the edges of my sheathes so I tried burnishing with Gum Tragacanth.


I'm ok with the results, those it took a lot of work to slick the edges. That's probably due to my lack of experience and skill. Next time I might try using Edge-Kote as well to see how I like the results.


The final step was to wax the sheath to give it some water resistance. I used Sno-Seal for this purpose, and I really like the way it applies and soaks into the leather. I think I'll continue using it on any future leatherwork I do.

Overall I'm pleased with the way this turned out. I was putting this project off for a while because I wasn't quite sure how to tackle the split for the finger guard, but I think this works out. If in the future the leather starts to pull away from the epoxy, I think I'll drill out some holes and simply saddle stitch it in place.




**Edit (July 2013)**
Since originally writing this post this sheath was taken out on numerous trips, some being in very wet conditions. On one particular trip the burnish on the edge ended up fraying because of the moisture and I had to repair it post-returning home. I've since treated it with edge kote and have not had that problem since. For anyone interested in sheath making I emphasize the need to use edge kote if the sheath it meant to be put through hard use.

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Canoe Camping Gear / Packlist


So you've decided to take a leap into canoe tripping, huh?

This is a short list of recommend items to bring if you're coming on a canoe trip with me.  I'll have the rest of the gear (map, water filter, rope, food barrel, backpacking stove, cooking tools, etc...) so this is a list of things to pack for yourself.

Gear Checklist
The Essentials
□ Trip plan left with family or friends
Large Backpack
□ Waterproof pack liner (if your bag isn't waterproof on its own)
□ Tent
□ Sleeping bag
□ Sleeping pad (not necessary, but makes the experience so much better than being on the ground)

Clothing
□ Rain Jacket or Poncho
□ Shorts / T-Shirts
□ Long Pants / Long sleeved shirt (it can get chilly at night or if it’s raining)
□ Swimwear
□ Hiking Boots or Walking shoes
□ Sandals or flip-flops
□ Hat
□ Sunglasses

Personal Care Items
□ Toothbrush / Toothpaste
□ Towel
□ Biodegradable Soap
□ Toilet paper / Baby wipes
□ Hand Sanitizer
□ Contacts / Glasses + repair kit
□ Bug Spray
□ Sunscreen

Camping Gear
□ Bowl / Fork / Spoon
□ Heat Proof cup (for hot drinks- coffee, hot chocolate, etc...)
□ Small Day pack  / possibles bag
□ Water bottle (I recommend  750ml or 1L bottles)
□ Fixed Blade / Swiss Army Knife / Multi-tool
□ Headlamp / Flashlight / Lantern
□ Compass
□ First-aid kit
□ Whistle
□ Lighter / Matches in waterproof container
□ Small sewing kit / duct tape or waterproof tape / repair kit (for tents, sleeping pad, poncho, etc)

Extras (optional)
□ Binoculars
□ Fishing gear
□ Camera
□ Notebook / Journal & Pencil / Pen
□ Watch
□ Deck of cards / Games

How to Pack
How you pack your gear is almost as important as what you pack.  You're taking all of your personal effects with you, so the key is to identify what items are really needed and cut the ones that aren't.  More than likely you aren't going to need 3 pairs of shoes and an entire wardrobe of clothes.  For a 3 day trip, i usually carry
  • 2 pairs of long pants (convertible pants are even better)
  • 2-3 t-shirts
  • 1 long sleeved shirt 
  • Swim pants
  • Rain jacket / poncho
  • Hiking boots
  • Water shoes
I usually don't need more than that.  If I get cold at night I can layer items to enhance the insulation power of my clothing.  Wear the clean shirt you plan to wear the next day to bed and you no longer need a dedicated sleeping shirt.  On longer journeys you can wash soiled clothes with biodegradable detergent and hang them to dry during the day.

Because all of your belongings will be taken with you in the canoe, you MUST pack as if you will flip the canoe.  If canoe tripping is something you enjoy and plan to continue doing, it's not about if you spill...but when.

All items need to be in a waterproof pack, and if the pack isn't waterproof it must have a waterproof liner in the main bucket area where your items are being stored.  In a pinch a garbage bag without holes in it will do, but I recommend a light weight ripstop nylon liner because it's durable and relatively cheap.  Clothes, sleeping bag, sleeping pad and tent should be carried in this waterproof area so that in the event your canoe capsizes, you won't be sleeping in wet gear and you'll have dry clothes clothes to change into at night.

Any electronics (cameras, lenses, cellphones, lanterns, flashlights) will need to be placed into this waterproof areas as well.

Organization is also key.  I have found that separating items into smaller kits is helpful in finding items I need quickly (all clothes in a stuff sack, hygiene items in a kit, first aid kit, etc...).  A cost effective way to do this is by using large freezer bags, but any small pouch will do.

You'll want to pack items you're less likely to need at the bottom of the pack and items you need quick access to on top or in side pockets.  Nothing is worse than realizing you're about to be rained on and your poncho/rain jacket is at the bottom of your pack under the rest of your gear.

If there are portages on this trip, try your best to pack everything so that nothing is loose.  Remember that everything needs to be carried by hand over land, so having it all in the pack reduces the amount of trips you'll need to cart all the gear.

Do not keep food in your pack.  The last thing you want is your clothes and gear smelling like food in bear country.  If you have energy bars or snacks, it needs to be packed away into the food barrel.

Where to buy?
List of local retailers you can find most of these items:

Of course if you think you need guidance you can feel free to message me about specific items.